By Peter Amend
A solitary lobster fisherman loading his pots was the only sign of life, as I put in from the rickety dock at sunrise.
Pointed straight into the offshore breeze in my white kayak at close to 6am, I felt like a daytime ninja paddling into the milky whiteness. Thank goodness for Peggy’s Point Lighthouse - a historic tower guarding this Nova Scotia coastline. It's eerie silent strobe was my constant companion, and I kept looking over my shoulder to maintain a visual connection to the shore. It's easy to get turned around in these conditions, and while I don't ever recommend paddling alone, it was too perfect of a place to let my kayak stay dry in the trunk of the car. This solo road trip was far too long to be deterred by a gloomy day!
Peggy’s Cove is a quaint Nova Scotia lobster fishing village on the eastern most point of St. Margaret’s Bay, 40km from Halifax. There's a certain charm found on the maritime provinces that you won’t find anywhere else - the hospitality of kindhearted Canadians is unmatched, and the beautiful aesthetic of the brightly painted homes stands out on a gloomy morning.
I love the satisfaction of seeing a tourist destination in a new way - and traveling with a kayak has certainly lent new options for experiencing a popular place through a unique lens. The oversized baggage fee (and space in your rental car trunk) is a small price to pay for the freedom available to you in your own personal powered paddle-craft. The more I travel with my Bay kayak, the more I'm stoked by the spontaneous exploration opportunity that was never accessible until this origami boat came along.
A few hours of exploring the open sea went by, and in need of a caffeine kick (as if the ocean spray hitting my face wasn't enough of a wakeup) my boat glided back into the cove. As if it was sent from heaven, a cute cafe called "Beales’ Bailiwick" appeared from the mist. Hopping on shore, and crossing the road, immediately I was treated by the friendliest baristas to the tastiest mocha I've ever sipped. And not being one to shy away from seafood - I had to indulge in a lobster feast at Sou'Wester, cause where else can you dip your food in a bowl of butter and not appear insane?